Sunday, October 7, 2007

Paris Catacombs

A couple of hundred years ago, health issues arising from the drinking of water that had been filtered through thousands of corpses in the Paris Cemetary of the Innocents, dictated that the graves all be dug up and the bones stored in a common ossuary.
The ossuray was then opened to the public in the early 1800s for the citizens to go and see the ghoulish remains of the former inhabitants. The caverns have been divided into 'rues' (streets) each with their own name, and death-related slogans adorn the walls. 20m underground, it is as quiet, as they say, as the grave.
The tunnels twist and turn for what seems like forever, but is in fact 500m odd. Eerie lighting casts grim shadows on the walls and sporadically you hear the distant drip-drip of perhaps some of that same water that so caused the casualties.
Eventually you arrive at the ossuaries... vast stretches of yellowed bones of the executed, dieseased and accident prone lie grimmacing eternally at you. One adaption that had been made since the original opening was to arrange the bones into artful patterns, crosses, heart-shapes and decorative florettes. They aren't hidden behind glass or grating, but they are the very walls of the moody sarcophagus.
Staring and staring... the expressions on the skulls are greatly varied. Some plead with you. Others seem to laugh knowingly. A few glare accusing and furious, while others wear guilt or scared deference. Many just have that tired, faraway look of those who know their fate and long for rest.
Though it was interesting it was a delight to be above ground again, breathing the clear air in the sunshine, without the pressing whisper of death just over your shoulder.